Trip report and species lists - Grand Canyon/Zion trip, May 2004

by Patricia Corry

Photos by David Vandermast, Amanda Senft, Jingyun Fang, Lee Anne Jacobs, Pat Corry, and Sarah Holley

 

     The participants of this informal phytogeographical excursion to the Colorado Plateau were: Dr. Jingyun Fang, a visiting botany professor from Beijing, and UNC-CH plant ecology grad students Lee Anne Jacobs, Amanda Senft, Pat Corry, and Dave Vandermast. Unlike the 2001 PEL Big Bend field trip whose participants acquired colorful appellations such as “Lizard Crusher”, “Freak Daddy”, and “Sex Machine”, most of us did not acquire nicknames during this trip. The exception was Amanda. Early in the trip when she made some sort of minor, reasonable request, Dave started teasing her about being “demanding”. He dubbed her “Demanda”, and the name stuck.

    

Wed. May 5

 

     We flew into Phoenix mid-morning, loaded up our rental van, and headed north on I-17.  Once we got past Phoenix’s sprawling suburbs, we pulled off the highway for a closer look at the Sonoran desert.

 

Stop near MP 225 on I-17, N. of Phoenix

     West-facing slope of rocky volcanic hills, roughly 800-900m elevation. Most spp listed were in bloom, including saguaro and ocotillo.

 

* = exotic sp.

 

Trees:

Yellow paloverde tree (Cercidium microphyllum)

Shrubs:

Creosote (Larrea tridentata)

Brittlebush (Encelia sp.)

Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens)

Cacti:

Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea)

Cane cholla (Opuntia spinosior)

Teddybear cholla (Opuntia bigelovii)

Fishhook cactus (Mammillaria microcarpa)

Barrel cactus (Ferocactus wislizenii)

Herbs:

*Filaree (Erodium cicutarium)

 

Fauna: Gambel’s quail, chipmunk (golden-mantled ground squirrel?)

 

Other notes: Fang discovers cactus spines.

 

     We left I-17 and took the scenic route to Flagstaff via Oak Creek Canyon. Wildflowers were abundant in this area, especially the yellow groundsel that we saw throughout the trip.

 

Stop along Hwy 179 ~3 mi. S. of Sedona

     Pinyon-juniper woodland in redrock canyon country near Mogollon Rim, ~1400m elevation.

 

Trees:

Juniper (Juniperus sp)

Shrubs:

Snakeweed (Gutierrezia sarothrae)

Red barberry (Berberis haematocarpa)

Manzanita (Arctostaphylos pungens)

Cacti:

Prickly pear cactus (Opuntia engelmannii)

Herbs:

Desert globemallow (Sphaeralcea sp., probably ambigua)

Groundsel (Senecio sp)

Eaton’s penstemon (Penstemon eatonii)

Milkvetch (Astragalus sp, probably desperatus)

 

Fauna: lizards

 

Hike up West Fork of Oak Creek Canyon

     This was a nice streamside hike in a redrock canyon of the Mogollon Rim, ~1700m elevation. The canyon bottom had beautiful scattered stands of old-growth Ponderosa pine and carpets of bracken fern and wildflowers. Near the trailhead is an old settlement with many exotic spp.

 

Near trailhead/settlement:

*Tree of heaven (Ailanthus)

*Myrtle (Vinca major)

*Lilac (Syringa)

*Ripgut brome (Bromus diandrus)

 

In canyon:

Trees:

Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa) (some >1 m diam.)

Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)

Arizona sycamore (Platanus wrightii)

Bigtooth maple (Acer grandidentatum)

Box elder (Acer negundo)

Velvet ash (Fraxinus velutina)

Gambel oak (Quercus gambelii)

Shrubs & Vines:

Thimbleberry/New Mexican Raspberry (Rubus neomexicanus)

Black chokecherry (Prunus serotina)

Red-osier dogwood (Cornus stolonifera)

Wild grape (Vitis arizonica)

Herbs:

Bracken fern (Pteridium aquilinum) (common; dense stands)

Horsetails (2 spp: Equisetum arvense, E. hyemale)

Unk. native bunchgrass

Unk. sedge (Carex sp)

Poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans)

Groundsel (Senecio sp - same sp seen at earlier stop)

Western wallflower (Erysimum capitatum)

Phacelia sp

Violet (white) (Viola canadensis)

False Solomon’s seal (Smilacina racemosa)

Fendler’s meadow rue (Thalictrum fendleri)

Lupine (Lupinus sp.-- palmeri?)

Monkeyflower (Mimulus guttatus)

Chickweed (Stellaria sp)

Draba (Draba asprella)

Valerian (Valeriana edulis)

 

Fauna: several spp of lizards; Northern flicker, hairy woodpecker, Williamson’s sapsucker, black phoebes feeding near stream, ravens, hummingbirds; bizarre bird call (loud eh-eh-eh-eh, almost like sheep baahing).

 

     In the evening we headed into Flagstaff, checked into the Motel 6, and went to dinner at a Mexican restaurant, by popular request (gotta have salsa and cerveza on our first night in the Southwest).

 

 

Thurs. May 6

 

Walnut Canyon National Monument (E. of Flagstaff)

     In the morning we visited Sinaguan cliff dwellings (occupied ca. 1100-1250 A.D.) in a botanically-diverse canyon in pinyon-juniper woodland at ~2040m elevation. The rim of Walnut Canyon is Kaibab Limestone, the same formation that forms the rim of the Grand Canyon; the Toroweap Fm. and Coconino Sandstone are also exposed in Walnut Canyon. The cliff dwellings are tucked back in natural alcoves in the limestone, and you can still see the fire marks on the walls and the Sinaguans’ fingerprints in the mortar.

 

Trees:

Pinyon pine (Pinus edulis)

Juniper: at least 2 spp: alligator juniper (Juniperus deppeana) and Utah juniper(?)

Gambel oak (Quercus gambelii)

Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa)

Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)

Shrubs:

Fernbush (Chamaebatiaria millefolium)

Mormon tea (Ephedra trifurca)

Fremont barberry (Berberis fremontii)

Buckwheat (Eriogonum sp)

Snakeweed (Gutierrezia sarothrae)

Wax currant (Ribes cereum)

Snowberry (Symphoricarpos parishii)

Wolfberry (Lycium pallidum)

Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus nauseosus)

Cliffrose (Cowania mexicana var. stansburiana)

Mountain mahogany (Cercocarpus montanus)

Sagebrush (Artemisia sp-- small shrub, silvery leaves-- not tridentata)

Cacti:

Pricklypear/Grizzly bear cactus (Opuntia erinacea)

Claret cup (Echinocereus triglochidiatus)

Herbs:

Blue grama grass (Bouteloua gracilis)

several unk. bunchgrasses

*Cheatgrass (Bromus tectorum)

*Ripgut brome (Bromus diandrus)

Banana yucca (Yucca baccata)

Rockmat (Petrophylum caespitosum)

Wheeler thistle (Cirsium wheeleri)

Groundsel (Senecio sp - same sp seen at Oak Creek Cyn)

Indian paintbrush (Castilleja sp-- probably chromosa)

Purple locoweed (Oxytropis lambertii)

Golden draba (Draba aurea)

Fendler’s meadow rue (Thalictrum fendleri)

Bedstraw (Galium sp)

Arizona valerian (Valeriana arizonica)

Fleabane (Erigeron oreophilus)

Penstemon sp (not flowering)

*Horehound (Marrubium vulgare)

*Filaree (Erodium cicutarium)

 

Fauna: Lizards, including an interestingly pigmented species that seems to have a wide geographic range, as we saw it throughout the trip; male hummingbirds (probably rufous) doing aerial displays; violet-green swallows, canyon wrens, ravens, turkey vultures.

 

 

     We drove back into Flag and stocked up on groceries and gas, then headed for the Canyon. We had a nice view of the snow-covered San Francisco Peaks from the north side.

 

South Rim of Grand Canyon

     We arrived mid-day and set up our tents in Mather Campground, then proceeded to Yavapai Point for a look at the Canyon. I was leading the charge to the viewpoint when a huge snake dashed across the trail right under my foot. It wasn’t a rattler but it still startled me because I so nearly stepped on it, which wouldn’t have done the snake any good, and also would have usurped Dane Kuppinger’s reputation as PEL’s chief herp-crusher. It was a bull snake, about 4 ½ - 5 feet long. After admiring the snake awhile, we looked at the Canyon  (first sight of it for Amanda, Fang, and Dave), and people seemed duly impressed.  We had lunch on the Rim and posed for a group photo.

     We spent the rest of the day walking along the Rim. Down below we could see the Bright Angel and Plateau Point trails that we would hike tomorrow. We didn’t do much botanizing,